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Bead Charts & Articles HEADING_TITLE
  1. Anniversary Gemstones
  2. Birthstones For Hour of Birth
  3. Commonly Used Birthstones
  4. Converting Wire Diameters
  5. Deciphering Quality Marks
  6. Firepolish Beads History
  7. Gemstone Colors
  8. Bead Finish Definitions
  9. Types of Glass

A resource of articles related to all things beading.

1. Anniversary Gemstones  |   Return to Menu

Did you know there are particular gemstones and jewelry for anniversaries? This list of gems and jewelry gifts is endorsed by the American Gem Society, Jewelers of America, the Jewelry Industry Council, the Gemological Institute of America, the American Gem Trade Association, the Cultured Pearl Association of America, and the International Colored Gemstone Association.

Anniversary Gemstone
1 Gold Jewelry
2 Garnet
3 Pearl
4 Blue Topaz
5 Sapphire
6 Amethyst
7 Onyx
8 Tourmaline
9 Lapis Lazuli
10 Diamond
11 Turquoise
12 Jade
13 Citrine
14 Opal
15 Ruby
16 Peridot
17 Watches
18 Catseye Chrysoberyl
19 Aquamarine
20 Emerald
21 Iolite
22 Spinel
23 Imperial Topaz
24 Tanzanite
25 Silver Jubilee
30 Pearl Jubilee
35 Emerald
40 Ruby
45 Sapphire
50 Golden Jubilee
55 Alexandrite
60 Diamond Jubilee
70 Sapphire Jubilee
80 Ruby Jubilee

2. Birthstones for Hour of Birth  |   Return to Menu

One method of determining your birthstone is to assign it based on the hour in which you were born. This numerological method requires that you know the exact hour of your birth. Remember to take Daylight Saving Time into account, if it applies to you.

Hour of Birth Birthstone
1 (midnite until 1 am) Quartz
2 Hematite
3 Malachite
4 Lapis Lazuli
5 Turquoise
6 Tourmaline
7 Chyrsolite (Peridot)
8 Amethyst
9 Kunzite
10 Sapphire
11 Garnet
12 (noon until 1 pm) Diamond
13 Zircon
14 Emerald
15 Beryl
16 Topaz
17 Ruby
18 Opal
19 Sardonyx
20 Chalcedony
21 Jade
22 Jasper
23 Lode
24 Onyx

3. Commonly Used Birthstones  |   Return to Menu

Month Birthstone
January Garnet
February Amethyst
March Aquamarine
April Diamond
May Emerald
June Alexandrite (Pearls are often substituted)
July Ruby
August Peridot
September Sapphire
October Rose Zircon or Opal
November Topaz
December Blue Zircon

4. Converting Wire Diameters  |   Return to Menu

The diameter of the wire you buy depends on its country of origin. The two units of measurement in use are the metric system, in which the diameter of the wire is given in millimeters, and the Brown & Sharpe (B&S) gauge number. In the United States, wire is sized according to its gauge. However, many excellent patterns and instructions are available written for wire sized in millimeters. You may live in a country where the wire is in millimeters, yet you want to try a pattern written for gauge wire. What's a jewelry maker to do? Use the size of wire that is closest to the recommended wire. There are no exact conversions, so sometimes you will want to use the slightly finer wire (e.g., when making small jump rings or a delicate design) and sometimes you may choose the closest larger diameter (e.g., when making clasps or components that will be exposed to stress).

Nearest Equivalents - Millimeters and Gauges

Use this table when you simply want the wire that is closest in diameter to the other system of measurement.

Metric Diameter Nearest Gauge
2.00mm 12
1.50mm 14
1.25mm 16
1.00mm 18
0.75mm 20
0.64mm 22
0.50mm 24

Metric Diameter of B&S Gauges

Refer to this table when you need to make a judgement call to select the best wire for a purpose. You won't actually get two decimal points of precision in gauge wire, unless you purchased wire conforming to this level of tolerance. You can use vernier calipers if you need to measure the diameter of wire with high precision.

B&S Guage Actual Diameter
12 2.05mm
14 1.63mm
16 1.29mm
18 1.02mm
20 0.81mm
22 0.64mm
24 0.51mm

5. Deciphering Quality Marks  |   Return to Menu

What is a Quality Mark? A quality mark is information about metal content that appears on an article. It is usually stamped or inscribed on the piece. There is considerable confusion about the meaning of quality marks that are seen on jewelry and other items. Here is some information that will help de-mystify terms such as 'plated', 'filled', 'sterling', and others.

Gold Quality Marks
karat, carat, Karat, Carat, Kt., Ct., K, C
Gold is measured in
karats, with 24 karats being 24/24ths gold, or pure gold. A 10 karat gold item contains 10/24ths gold, a 12K item is 12/24ths gold, etc. Karats may be expressed using a decimal figure, such as .416 fine gold (10K). The minimum allowable quality for karat gold is 9 karats.

Karats are not to be confused with carats (ct.), which are a unit of gemstone mass. One carat weighs 0.2 gram (1/5 of a gram or 0.0007 ounce). A hundredth of a carat is called a point.

Gold Filled and Rolled Gold Plate
gold filled, G.F., doublé d'or, rolled gold plate, R.G.P., plaqué d'or laminé
The quality mark for gold filled is used for an article (except optical frames, watch cases, hollow ware, or flatware) consisting of a base metal to which a sheet of at least 10 karat gold has been bonded. Additionally, the weight of the gold sheet must be at least 1/20th the total weight of the item. The quality mark may specify the ratio of the weight of the gold in the article to the total weight of the article as well as a statement of the quality of the gold expressed in karats or decimals. For example, a mark of '1/20 10K G.F.' refers to a gold filled article that consists of 10 karat gold for 1/20th of its total weight.

Rolled gold plate and gold filled may utilize the same manufacturing process, but the gold sheet used in rolled gold usually is less than 1/20th the total weight of the article. The sheet must still be at least 10 karat gold. Like gold filled articles, the quality mark used for rolled gold plate articles may include a weight ratio and a statement of quality (for example, 1/40 10K R.G.P.).

Gold and Silver Plate
gold electroplate, gold plated, G.E.P., electroplaqué d'or or or plaqué, silver electroplate, silver plate, silver plated, electroplaqué d'argent, plaqué d'argent, or the abbreviations of these terms
The quality marks for gold plated indicate that an article has been electroplated with gold of at least 10 karats. The quality marks for silver plated indicate that an article has been electroplated with silver of at least 92.5% purity. There is no minimum thickness required for silver plated or gold plated articles.

Silver Quality Marks
silver, sterling, sterling silver, argent, argent sterling, abbreviations of these terms, 925, 92.5, .925
The quality marks or a decimal figure may be used on articles containing a minimum of 92.5% pure silver. Some metals may be called 'silver' when, in fact, they are not (except in coloration). For example, nickel silver (also know as German silver) is an alloy consisting of about 60% copper, about 20% nickel, about 20% zinc, and sometimes about 5% tin (in which case the alloy is called alpaca). There is no silver at all in German/nickel/alpaca silver.

Vermeil
vermeil or vermil (pronounced ver may)
The quality marks for
vermeil are used on articles made of silver of at least 92.5 percent purity and plated with gold of at least 10 karats. No minimum thickness is required for the gold plated portion.

Platinum and Palladium Quality Marks
platinum, plat., platine, palladium, pall.
The quality marks for platinum are applied to articles composed of at least 95 percent platinum, 95 percent platinum and iridium, or 95 percent platinum and ruthenium.

The quality marks for palladium are applied to articles composed of at least 95 percent palladium, or 90 percent palladium and 5 percent platinum, iridium, ruthenium, rhodium, osmium or gold.

6. Fire Polish Beads History  |   Return to Menu

Fire polished beads from the Czech Republic are a faceted glass bead. Production of glass beads in the area dates back to the 14th century. The Czech region is well known for the manufacture of high quality glass beads. They come in many different shapes, colors, sizes, finishes and with many different coatings also available. They offer a cost effective yet superior quality bead suitable for many different types of beading projects. Czech fire polished beads are very popular because they are the highest quality manufactured faceted bead available.

7. Gemstone Colors  |   Return to Menu

Gemstones are available in every color of the rainbow. Many stones come in more colors than you may expect! Use this chart to help identify the color of an unknown stone or to give you ideas for stones within a color range.

Color Gemstones
Purple amethyst, garnet, sapphire, spinel, tanzanite, jadeite, iolite, charoite, jasper, sugilite, fluorite, alexandrite
Blue sapphire, aquamarine, topaz, tourmaline, spinel, lapis lazuli, turquoise, iolite, sodalite, blue lace agate, labradorite/spectrolite, chalcedony, indicolite
Turquoise turquoise, amazonite, chrysocolla, apatite
Green emerald, tourmaline, tsavorite garnet, demantoid garnet, peridot, jade, sapphire, alexandrite, aventurine, bloodstone, chrysoprase (chalcedony), grossular garnet, malachite, zoisite, moldavite, fluorite, idocrase
Yellow sapphire, citrine, chrysoberyl, topaz, zircon, heliodor (beryl), amber, tourmaline, garnet, onyx, diamond, fluorite, labradorite
Orange sapphire, garnet, citrine, topaz, fire opal, carnelian, amber, coral, pearl, moonstone, sunstone
Pink ruby, sapphire, spinel, garnet, morganite (beryl), topaz, tourmaline, coral, pearl, rose quartz, rhodonite, rhodochrosite, alexandrite, kunzite
Red ruby, garnet, tourmaline, spinel, alexandrite, carnelian
Black obsidian, jet, hematite, onyx
Gray moonstone, labradorite, pearl
White or Clear quartz, pearl, moonstone, ivory, diamond, moissanite
Brown tigereye, agate, ammonite, jasper, marble

8. Types of Bead Finishes  |   Return to Menu

Bead Finish Appearance
Aurora Borealis - AB Permanent rainbow finish which can be applied to any color or type of glass bead. The finish is applied to one side of the bead only. The AB finish can be scratched, but should not rub off under normal wear.
Bronze Bronze beads are coated with gold mixed with other materials and then baked on so that the finish resembles bronze.
Ceylon Transparent/translucent lustered beads. The finish has a pearlized appearance.
Galvanized Beads plated with zinc in either a shiny or matte finish. The zinc coating tends not to be durable and can rub off during beading. The beads may be coated with an acrylic spray to help stabilize the finish.
Ghost A finish combining matte and aurora norealis or rainbow.
Glow A gossamer finish over a transparent bead which results in a golden glow over the color.
Gold Luster Transparent beads that have been lustered with a gold finish, creating subtle gold highlights on the bead.
Higher Metallic Beads that are surface coated with gold and then sprayed with oxidized titanium.
Iris Iridescent permanent coating applied to a glass bead giving it a rainbowed metallic appearance.
Luster or Lustre

Luster = A uniform, shiny finish on the surface of a transparent, translucent or opaque bead. The coating may be white (pearl), colored or metallic and the beads tend to have a pearled look.

Marea One-half gold with a rainbow finish over the gold half.
Matte Treatment that results in a velvety, non-reflective, frosted appearance.
Metallic Glass beads with a metal-like surface coating, usually from being heated and then sprayed with oxidized tin. Thicker coatings results in darker finishes. Metallic coatings may rub off or change color.
Mottle Opaque glass with a marbled gold wash.
Painted/Dyed Treated with surface colorants that have been applied after the bead is made, usually involving application of pigment and then baking. The term 'dyed' tends to be used with tranparent beads; 'painted' refers to opaque beads. Strong UV light (as from fluorescent bulbs) or sunlight may cause fading. Some dyes will change color or wash off upon exposure to solvents, such as water or alcohol.
Pearl This term is often used to describe opaque lustered beads.
Plated Nickel plated beads are plated with nickel, gold plated beads are plated with gold (karat will be specified), etc.
Rainbow Permanent, translucent, iridescent coating. Usually applied over the entire surface of the bead.
Raku Matte vitrial finish.
Scarabee Aurora borealis finish applied over the entire surface area of bead.
Semi-Matte Matte but with a light polish. Not as shiny as regular opaque.
Supra Metallic Baked-on metallic finish with a slightly matte appearance. More durable than sprayed on metallic coating.
Supra Pearl Baked-on pearl finish with a slightly matte appearance.
Vitrial or Vitrail One-half silver with a rainbow finish over the silver half. Different rainbow coatings are available.

9. Types of Glass  |   Return to Menu

Glass Type Appearance
Agate Made to look like the gemstone agate. The glass has white swirled with color.
Charlotte Beads have a single cut on one side of the bead which gives them a bit of sparkle. Most commonly found in size 13, although other sizes are available, too.
Color Lined Transparent beads with an opaque color 'lining' inside the hole of the bead. The color may be scratched off by the stringing material over time and certain colors will fade.
Cut Usually refers to hex cut, also called 3-cut or 6-cut, in which the bead has been cut to form a hexagon.
Gilt Lined Inside of the bead has a golden (not real gold) lining.
Gold Lined Inside of the bead has a gold lining.
Inside Color Transparent beads that have had an opaque color applied to the inside of the bead. Also called color lined.
Opal Semi-translucent glass that transmits light but is milky. Good opal glass has a bit of glow to it.
Opaque Opaque glass transmits no light. Opaque glass has a dull gloss, although surface treatments are often applied (e.g., matte, rainbow).
Satin Satin glass has a layered or satin-like appearance. The exact color depends on the viewing angle.
Silky Silky beads, like satin, may have a striated, satiny appearance.
Silver Lined (s/l) These transparent beads that have been lined with silver. The silver lining is much harder to mar than a color lining.
Tortoise Shell Two or more colors of glass swirled together to produce a bead which appears to have been made from tortoiseshell, although the term is also applied to non-tortoise colors, too.
Transparent or Translucent (trans) Transparent glass transmits light through the bead - you could read through it (like a window). Translucent glass transmits light, but you can't see through it clearly (like ground glass)..
White Heart White hearts may be any degree of transparency, but have an inner core of white glass. The bead hole is always lined with white.

More articles coming soon. Check back again!

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